The Modest Outside Doors of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, Lead to Amazing Inner Spaces
It's like Lucy passing through the wardrobe into Narnia!
In C.S. Lewis’ classic children’s novel The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, eight-year-old Lucy Pevensie steps through the door of a nondescript wardrobe into enchanted lands.
The same thing happens in San Miguel de Allende, a Spanish colonial town located on the high plains of central Mexico.
It’s something almost all visitors to the city notice before too long — how the city has hundreds of modest doors lining its streets, but when they’re opened, you see tantalizing hints of incredible things inside: lush gardens, colorful tilework, sparkling fountains, and sometimes even towering trees.
And because of the way the buildings and the city streets are constructed, these interior spaces — often open-air courtyards — can be absolutely massive, even taking up entire city blocks.
In other words, enchanted lands!
Here are some of our favorite “magic doors” in San Miguel with a close look at the incredible worlds that exist beyond them.
Casa de la Cuesta
“Casa de la Cuesta” means “the House on the Hill,” but given what’s inside this lovely bed and breakfast, a better name might be “the House of the Amazing Masks.”
Because behind this modest exterior…
…visitors are first greeted by this mysterious entryway…
…and then at the top of the stairs, they’ll find a fantastic collection of gardens, fountains, courtyards, and more.
Casa de la Cuesta, run by Bill LeVasseur, has seven great rooms, but it also has an extra bit of magic: an extensive and remarkable collection of indigenous masks.
Even if you don’t stay at the hotel, you can visit the mask museum.
Rates start at $200 per night, tax and full breakfast included.
Casa Canal
Casa Canal, a shopping area that includes San Miguel’s only Starbucks Coffee, is another place that doesn’t look like much outside.
But when you step through the doorway, you’ll discover a hidden oasis awaits.
And at night? It’s even more magical.
Not a bad place to drink your coffee, is it?
Antigua Capilla Bed and Breakfast
Here’s a door that leads to a secret place within a secret place.
But first, once you pass through the modest front door, you must maneuver up a set of stairs.
At the top of the stairs, visitors find those classic “San Miguel” touches: arches, columns, a fountain, and lots of lovely plants.
But explore deeper and you’ll find the secret place within the secret place — a three-hundred-year-old Spanish chapel!
Not much is known about the chapel, but Francisco and Antonieta, the current owners of Antigua, believe the chapel is named San Jose de Leonessa, named after Joseph of Leonessa.
It had been long forgotten, only rediscovered when Francisco and Antonieta created their bed and breakfast.
Rooms start at $175 a night, with breakfast included. While Antigua is built in a traditional Spanish style, it is new and features all modern amenities — and is a great place to watch night fall over San Miguel.
Casa de la Noche
Casa de la Noche, or “House of Night,” has a good reason for its plain exterior: it used to be a bordello and didn’t want to attract the attention of the neighbors — or the authorities.
But it attracted plenty of local men, who eagerly but discreetly passed through its doors.
Today, Casa de la Noche is run by Barbara Poole, an artist and businesswoman who has turned this former brothel into a boutique hotel with many intimate spaces and an arts center for visiting artists.
Several of the rooms are even said to be haunted.
But Casa de la Noche’s strongest magic may be its fascinating history, especially the story of the woman who created the brothel — “La Turca,” deemed “the Turk” by locals because of her “exotic” look. By selling her wares, she found a way to stave off the worst of the Great Depression and also offered financial independence to some of the women who worked for her.
Rooms range from $107 a night to $750 for luxury suites.
Casa Schuck
Casa Schuck in Zona Centro is yet another exterior that doesn’t promise much.
But yet again, once you enter…
And beyond that is yet another hidden world with, yes, even a towering tree casting dappled shadows.
There’s also a small pool and a lovely courtyard with shaded tables.
And another set of stairs leads to a deck with a fantastic rooftop view. In San Miguel, sunsets are highly recommended.
Casa Schuck was originally built in 1871 but has been completely transformed into one of San Miguel’s most luxurious lodgings.
Rooms start at $218 and go up to $300 in the high season, but specials are often available.
La Joya Azul
“La Joya Azul” means “The Blue Jewel” — a name that evokes classic tales of secret treasure and wonder.
So what lies beyond the wooden door of the guest house, La Joya Azul?
Lots of blue, for one thing.
And befitting Lucy’s travels in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, La Joya Azul also has an actual wardrobe.
If we stepped through it, would there be another world beyond the world?
La Joya Azul also offers another amazing view of the city — much of it in blue, of course!
La Joya Azul is owned by Bruce and Chris, a gay couple from Washington State who now live in San Miguel.
But their bed and breakfast is popular with people of all sorts — gay and straight, Mexican, American, and European — who share an appreciation for San Miguel's hidden charms.
That’s it! We hope, like Lucy in Narnia, you’ve enjoyed our travels to the “secret lands” of San Miguel!
Michael Jensen is a novelist and editor. For a newsletter with more of my photos, visit me at www.MichaelJensen.com.
Loved seeing your lineup! After two decades living part time in SMA there were places I had not heard of, like Casa de la Noche. That portrait of la Turca and her retinue was amazing! 😮 Our home of 21 years is right around the corner from Casa Schuck, by the way, and just a block from Manantial, our favorite local watering hole — also historic, not much to look at from the outside — and a must visit if you haven’t dropped by.
A door that leads to a secret place within a secret place?! You’re speaking my language.
Fantastic photos.