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Haliday's avatar

On my husband’s 70th birthday back in 2018 our Golden Princess cruise from Singapore to Alaska landed in Muroran. I had done some research and had booked a full-day in the public onsen at Dai-ichi Takimotokan in Noboritbetsu. We grabbed the train at the port and then a taxi to the hotel.

Nick and I separated and our individual adventures began. There were no other Westerners there so I just watched what the Japanese women (and their children) did. I only got yelled at once—when I forgot to put on my slippers and walked barefoot in the locker room. Then I put a washcloth on my head and wandered into the series of pools. Each was labelled for a various body part or function. The temperatures ranged from tepid to as high as 110 degrees. At 5’8 and 170 pounds, I never felt so fat and white! The adults didn’t stare but the children sure did. The Japanese mothers did their best to whisper them into silence. I just smiled and waved at them.

Afterwards, I returned to the locker room and put on my bathing suit to join Nick in the warm springs, outdoor co-ed pool. With a volcano view. There was a whirlpool spinner to dry out my suit in the locker room.

Nick had a similar experience. Like me, he gravitated towards the hottest pool and had a funny interlude with a Japanese man who announced it was too hot for him. He also caught some sidelong glances at his 6’1” 210 pound frame! The cafe and the gift shop in the hotel were spectacular as well.

What an amazing day—so so relaxing. We plan to go and actually stay at this hotel and explore Nororibetsu for a few days during our 4-month stay this spring. We have also made reservations at The Dormy Inn, another hotel with a private onsen in Muroran.

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Paula's avatar

I'm glad you've discovered the wonders of Japanese baths! One of my favorite things about living in Japan!

Regarding "But why not just use the shower nozzle? And why am I sitting? In fact, why the hell am I not just taking a thorough shower?", it's all about space and respect. Showering while standing takes up more space than sitting on your little stool. Circumspectly pouring small buckets of water over yourself avoids accidently spraying your neighbor with you shower head. Americans spread out and take you space, Japanese do not.

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