I'm currently reading Michael Palin's NEW EUROPE, about touring Europe in the early 2000s, and he first starts in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and talks about how their civil war in the 1990s is still very much alive in the minds and hearts of the people living there. Most of the people he met who took him around were former soldiers or insurgents....
Yes, the impact of violence like that is (understandably) very long lasting. I don't think the folks who eager advocate violence understand what violence and killing ARE.
I really love you guys! Writing this before I even read the article to give you the feedback of how much I love seeing a photo of the two of you together smiling with a beautiful background!! It makes me so happy to see you in my inbox! ❤️
Thank you for sharing about Mostar. My daughter-in-law is Bosniak. A month ago, my son, daughter-in-law, and granddaughter moved to Bosnia. I've been seeing all of the photos they post and it looks like a beautiful country. Now that they are there, my husband and I will spend several months a year in Bosnia each year. We're looking forward to our first trip there next Spring. Now that we are in our second week as nomads, I'll be starting my Substack blog soon. I anticipate many posts while we're in Bosnia...there is so much to share about this interesting country!
We visited Mostar in 2017 after our stop in Sarajevo where I turned my ankle so bad I thought I’d have to cut our trip short. But boy those “massage” stones made it very challenging. So no exploring but our hotel had a lovely view of the bridge. Glad you went to the monastery, we went very early in the morning and I loved it. But a very tragic region to be sure.
I did a road trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik in 2012. I found the border checkpoints interesting as B&H was “come on in!” and pre-EU Croatia was much more strict in their review of our US passports. Mostar was beautiful but all the pockmarked buildings was a bit chilling.
There is a Croatian road (overpass) that goes through Bosnia (their small connection to the sea) but because there are no exits, there is no actual "border". So interesting!
Yeah, now the border crossings are super chill, which is nice. But both Sarajevo and Mostar were very sobering places with all of that war damage still so visible.
I think this is my favourite piece of yours I've read! I love your work in general, but the sensitivity/perception/acuity here, coupled with your unique perspective? CHAPEAU!
I spent time in Dubrovnik and Split when the cities were in a country called "Yugoslavia." I've been afraid to go back because it sounds so touristy now, but your article about Mostar has definitely piqued my interest in revisiting the region. Thank you for presenting both sides -- the horrific (and visible) impact of war and the remaining beauty still to be found -- not just in the architecture, but in the food as well.
We visited on a day trip as well, I’m wishing we had spent a weekend. Heavy, yes, but there were so many more conversations I wanted to have. Thanks for the great read!
Brent and Michael - I had very similar feelings in visiting Mostar. I went to the genocide museum there and left with such heavy feelings. Made me endear the people living there and those that stayed and rebuilt the city, while I acknowledge that not everything can be perfectly rebuilt. The damaged sites serve as easy reminders of what was but also a symbol of the lack of funds/dollars/power to rebuild.
This was educational for me! I only had 2 days in Mostar but wasn’t aware of people jumping off the old bridge or Croats destroying that one monument. It felt so interesting to visit a place with so many cultures/traditions, but to live there I’m sure feels different (I just want everyone to get along!). Thank you for writing about Mostar, a city worth visiting with great views and food.
Sounds like we were struck by many of the same things in Bosnia. But that little snippet about Bosniak and Croat kids still having to divide the school day between themselves breaks my heart all over again
I'm currently reading Michael Palin's NEW EUROPE, about touring Europe in the early 2000s, and he first starts in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and talks about how their civil war in the 1990s is still very much alive in the minds and hearts of the people living there. Most of the people he met who took him around were former soldiers or insurgents....
Yes, the impact of violence like that is (understandably) very long lasting. I don't think the folks who eager advocate violence understand what violence and killing ARE.
Few people who've actually ENGAGED in violence tend to support it...unless they're psychos or sociopaths.
I really love you guys! Writing this before I even read the article to give you the feedback of how much I love seeing a photo of the two of you together smiling with a beautiful background!! It makes me so happy to see you in my inbox! ❤️
Thank you, Reda! What a lovely thing to hear!
Thank you for sharing about Mostar. My daughter-in-law is Bosniak. A month ago, my son, daughter-in-law, and granddaughter moved to Bosnia. I've been seeing all of the photos they post and it looks like a beautiful country. Now that they are there, my husband and I will spend several months a year in Bosnia each year. We're looking forward to our first trip there next Spring. Now that we are in our second week as nomads, I'll be starting my Substack blog soon. I anticipate many posts while we're in Bosnia...there is so much to share about this interesting country!
Oh, wow, you'll really get an interesting perspective on the country then! Be sure to do a rafting trip on the Neretva. It was fantastic!
Excellent post, no notes. 😉
Who dis? LOL LOL
Michael, I've changed
Oh, is there a full moon right now? I hope Matt is safe.
*howls in laughter*
I love these Daytrip posts! Great to get a bite-sized overview of a place like this.
You do the hiking and we'll do these!
Deal!
We visited Mostar in 2017 after our stop in Sarajevo where I turned my ankle so bad I thought I’d have to cut our trip short. But boy those “massage” stones made it very challenging. So no exploring but our hotel had a lovely view of the bridge. Glad you went to the monastery, we went very early in the morning and I loved it. But a very tragic region to be sure.
Yeah, also not a fan of those massage stones! LOL But Mostar is a fascinating, tragic, and moving place.
We visited Mostar from Dubrovnik a couple of years ago. The whole region is suffused with melancholy- this town most of all
100% right.
Thanks for this. I might have to see Mostar and other places there for myself. You make me curious—always a good thing.
I think you would very much enjoy here and the rest of Eastern Europe.
I did a road trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik in 2012. I found the border checkpoints interesting as B&H was “come on in!” and pre-EU Croatia was much more strict in their review of our US passports. Mostar was beautiful but all the pockmarked buildings was a bit chilling.
There is a Croatian road (overpass) that goes through Bosnia (their small connection to the sea) but because there are no exits, there is no actual "border". So interesting!
Yeah, now the border crossings are super chill, which is nice. But both Sarajevo and Mostar were very sobering places with all of that war damage still so visible.
Great write up (and photos). KB and I loved Mostar - we still think about it. It's a beautiful place but yes, very confronting and heavy.
Thanks, Michael.
I think this is my favourite piece of yours I've read! I love your work in general, but the sensitivity/perception/acuity here, coupled with your unique perspective? CHAPEAU!
Thank you VERY much, Kate!
I spent time in Dubrovnik and Split when the cities were in a country called "Yugoslavia." I've been afraid to go back because it sounds so touristy now, but your article about Mostar has definitely piqued my interest in revisiting the region. Thank you for presenting both sides -- the horrific (and visible) impact of war and the remaining beauty still to be found -- not just in the architecture, but in the food as well.
Oh, the former countries are Yugoslavia are all fascinating and I'm so glad we've spend time there, especially Bosnia and Herzegovina.
What an interesting (and emotive) post. I hope as time moves on that town can begin to heal more productively. 💜
That would be great. But I think it will take a long time.
So sad. As you wrote, it seems still like such an open wound.
We visited on a day trip as well, I’m wishing we had spent a weekend. Heavy, yes, but there were so many more conversations I wanted to have. Thanks for the great read!
Thanks for reading!
Brent and Michael - I had very similar feelings in visiting Mostar. I went to the genocide museum there and left with such heavy feelings. Made me endear the people living there and those that stayed and rebuilt the city, while I acknowledge that not everything can be perfectly rebuilt. The damaged sites serve as easy reminders of what was but also a symbol of the lack of funds/dollars/power to rebuild.
This was educational for me! I only had 2 days in Mostar but wasn’t aware of people jumping off the old bridge or Croats destroying that one monument. It felt so interesting to visit a place with so many cultures/traditions, but to live there I’m sure feels different (I just want everyone to get along!). Thank you for writing about Mostar, a city worth visiting with great views and food.
Thanks, Istiaq!
Sounds like we were struck by many of the same things in Bosnia. But that little snippet about Bosniak and Croat kids still having to divide the school day between themselves breaks my heart all over again
Tragic, isn't it?