For myself, I grew up in an U.S. Army family, and we spent seven years in what was then called "West" Germany. Even though we lived in Army housing, went to Army dependent schools, and shopped at the Commissary and PX, we also shopped and ate meals "on the economy" (in German stores), and when in Frankfurt, rode the "Strass" (short for "Strassenbahn", or streetcars) around the city, and when I was old enough to date took them on day trips up the Rhine River.
I feel those years in another country, on another continent, made me into a more worldly, tolerant, and accepting person than I would have been if my family had stayed in a small town on the South Dakota/Minnesota border surrounded by largely people I was related to by blood or marriage, or even lived in San Diego where Mom was from.
I don't know how "good" that was for the German people, though having American money flooding in from the military, as well as from civilians traveling, shopping, and eating out on the economy certainly didn't hurt Germany's recovery after WWII.
Great perspective. Yes, I think it changes people. But I guess one also needs to be *receptive* to the change. I do think there are people who travel and learn nothing, insisting only on having the existing beliefs confirmed.
Oh, I know! I have one brother who disliked Germany because he couldn't ride his bike everywhere he wanted to, another who's a Libertarian Conservative who was at least smart enough to learn to speak and read German when he worked for Siemens, a German company, and the third who's outright MAGA and claims the COVID-19 injection he got GAVE him COVID-19! 🤦♂️
The late Anthony Bourdain pointed out people like this often, looking at the tourists who refused to eat outside of the Western-style hotel buffets and only went on guided tours, and mocked them pretty mercilessly while chowing down on a street truck taco in Mexico City or having a beer and a beer and a bánh mì with President Obama in Vietnam.
Excellent! I was reluctant to go to San Miguel Allende - hearing that it was just full of gringos. But I'm glad we went. Although I heard so much English there, I was surprised to see so many Mexican tourists. I love being around Mexican tourist, they know how to have fun!
We have Mexican friends who have a second home there. They are retired school teachers - so not your typical rich people from Mexico City. They love the city. I enjoy seeing there post of where they go and what they do. I think they also enjoy hanging with all their gringo friends there.
I happy to hear that the influx of foreigners has been good for San Miguel. It is really a stunning city.
Thank you for doing the research! The presence of many relatively rich expats has surely changed the city, and it agree: not always negatively. I just wish that what the wealthy bring into the economy gets better distributed. Some locals benefit, but by far not everyone.
Terrific post! I couldn’t agree more with your assessment. We’ve spent three months or more a year in San Miguel for the last four years and have also enjoyed traveling all over Mexico to quite a few other UNESCO protected city centers and Mexico’s own designation of Pueblo Magicos. Of these towns, San Miguel is most famous for being “gringolandia”, but there are comparably large populations of expats and non-Mexican tourists in many other places too that don’t get quite as much press but are experiencing similar gentrification issues- particularly Oaxaca, Mexico City, Merida, Ajijic, Chapala, and more. However, San Miguel also has more local nonprofit organizations than any of these other “expat havens” - the scholarships for local kids to go to high school and college sponsored by the Biblioteca in San Miguel is truly impressive and funded primarily by expats and wealthy Mexicans. “100 Women Who Care” is a group of way more than 100 women giving grants multiple times a year to organizations across San Miguel covering everything from health, education, the arts, women’s economic empowerment and more. There are significant complications from the wealth and cultural disparities in San Miguel, but there is also great generosity.
The physical beauty of big parts of San Miguel is astounding - it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a reason. But it is rivaled by places that aren’t as well “discovered” yet, like Patzcuaro, Lagos de Moreno, Valle de Bravo, Puebla and so many more.
I hope San Miguel can be a gateway to introduce more people to explore Mexico - it’s an extraordinary country and so much more than what’s in the headlines.
Lovely introspective article. I have really enjoyed your posts from this city. Mexico feels a million miles away to me in Ireland but you have brought it vividly to life, and Claire too. We see gentrification here in Ireland too, especially in the more beautiful towns such as Kenmare and Dingle in Kerry. Where there is a market for it there will always be seller and a buyer! 😕
This is a very fair and even-handed report about a complicated subject in a beautiful place. I first visited San Miguel in 1989 and within 3 days, knew I was coming back. In the 35 or so years since that first visit, I have lived there for 18 years total. It's where most of my true friends still are. It shows up in my dreams. It is very much a part of my soul. Like so many San Miguel "old-timers," I sometimes grouse about the changes and gentrification. I loved the fact there used to be hardly any traffic at all --but that was because most Mexicans could not afford cars. I hate that so many of the artists and writers and other creative foreigners that used to give the town so much of its character have been priced out of it entirely. But I have so many Mexican friends who I have watched grow up, get educated, start businesses. Whenever I take a cab or Uber in town, I always ask the driver how long they have been in SMA and what they think of the changes. Many decry the rise in prices, the horrendous traffic, and the loss of crystal clear air quality. But then they always--ALWAYS--add, "But there's work." Overall, they prefer it now to "then." Bottom line -- I think San Miguel will always have its special magic. It's just a different kind of magic than it was 35 years ago. And that is the constant way of the world, isn't it?
Thank you for this fascinating post! It seems like San Miguel is going through a shift towards tourism similar to what all of Albania is going through. I think commentators who talk about tourism "ruining" a place's "authenticity" are fundamentally trying to project simplicity onto a complex world--not to mention failing at empathy. The reality is that "authentic" often is another way of saying "poor."
I so appreciate that you drew on conversations with multiple local Mexicans for this essay, it really does make a difference and shows how deeply rooted into your community you've gotten. Heck, you've inspired me: I'm going to work on talking to more Albanians in the tourism industry myself to get a better sense of the situation here!
Thanks for this insightful piece. My husband keeps pushing to visit San Miguel de Allende and I’ve been resisting for fear of encountering yet another place that has been wrecked by over-tourism. I feel a bit reassured by your clear-eyed analysis, though I’d also like to visit the less popular towns. I do find it appalling that Americans think it’s a virtue to live in Mexico for 20 years without attempting to learn Spanish.
For myself, I grew up in an U.S. Army family, and we spent seven years in what was then called "West" Germany. Even though we lived in Army housing, went to Army dependent schools, and shopped at the Commissary and PX, we also shopped and ate meals "on the economy" (in German stores), and when in Frankfurt, rode the "Strass" (short for "Strassenbahn", or streetcars) around the city, and when I was old enough to date took them on day trips up the Rhine River.
I feel those years in another country, on another continent, made me into a more worldly, tolerant, and accepting person than I would have been if my family had stayed in a small town on the South Dakota/Minnesota border surrounded by largely people I was related to by blood or marriage, or even lived in San Diego where Mom was from.
I don't know how "good" that was for the German people, though having American money flooding in from the military, as well as from civilians traveling, shopping, and eating out on the economy certainly didn't hurt Germany's recovery after WWII.
Great perspective. Yes, I think it changes people. But I guess one also needs to be *receptive* to the change. I do think there are people who travel and learn nothing, insisting only on having the existing beliefs confirmed.
Oh, I know! I have one brother who disliked Germany because he couldn't ride his bike everywhere he wanted to, another who's a Libertarian Conservative who was at least smart enough to learn to speak and read German when he worked for Siemens, a German company, and the third who's outright MAGA and claims the COVID-19 injection he got GAVE him COVID-19! 🤦♂️
The late Anthony Bourdain pointed out people like this often, looking at the tourists who refused to eat outside of the Western-style hotel buffets and only went on guided tours, and mocked them pretty mercilessly while chowing down on a street truck taco in Mexico City or having a beer and a beer and a bánh mì with President Obama in Vietnam.
Oy! It takes all kinds, I guess
Yeah, but why are they in my own family? 🤪
I'm so lucky my family are all dorky but raging progressives. Even the rural ones! 😂
Hold them close, for they are more precious than diamonds.
Excellent! I was reluctant to go to San Miguel Allende - hearing that it was just full of gringos. But I'm glad we went. Although I heard so much English there, I was surprised to see so many Mexican tourists. I love being around Mexican tourist, they know how to have fun!
We have Mexican friends who have a second home there. They are retired school teachers - so not your typical rich people from Mexico City. They love the city. I enjoy seeing there post of where they go and what they do. I think they also enjoy hanging with all their gringo friends there.
I happy to hear that the influx of foreigners has been good for San Miguel. It is really a stunning city.
I'm very very glad we went to!
Sounds like you saw San Miguel the same way that we did!
Thank you for doing the research! The presence of many relatively rich expats has surely changed the city, and it agree: not always negatively. I just wish that what the wealthy bring into the economy gets better distributed. Some locals benefit, but by far not everyone.
Absolutely true, but pretty much the way of the world everywhere for most of history...
This is true.
Well written. Lovely photos. So happy you found Sucre Bakery. Safe travel.
Thanks! And I’m glad we found Sucre too. Lovely place and people!
Great post about an important and complicated subject. Thank you!
Thanks for reading!
Blame Unesco and Airbnb. Or the local tourist office that keep “winning” awards. The money is behind tourism and it’s mostly Mexican these days.
Yes it's a world of change these days. 😕
Terrific post! I couldn’t agree more with your assessment. We’ve spent three months or more a year in San Miguel for the last four years and have also enjoyed traveling all over Mexico to quite a few other UNESCO protected city centers and Mexico’s own designation of Pueblo Magicos. Of these towns, San Miguel is most famous for being “gringolandia”, but there are comparably large populations of expats and non-Mexican tourists in many other places too that don’t get quite as much press but are experiencing similar gentrification issues- particularly Oaxaca, Mexico City, Merida, Ajijic, Chapala, and more. However, San Miguel also has more local nonprofit organizations than any of these other “expat havens” - the scholarships for local kids to go to high school and college sponsored by the Biblioteca in San Miguel is truly impressive and funded primarily by expats and wealthy Mexicans. “100 Women Who Care” is a group of way more than 100 women giving grants multiple times a year to organizations across San Miguel covering everything from health, education, the arts, women’s economic empowerment and more. There are significant complications from the wealth and cultural disparities in San Miguel, but there is also great generosity.
The physical beauty of big parts of San Miguel is astounding - it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a reason. But it is rivaled by places that aren’t as well “discovered” yet, like Patzcuaro, Lagos de Moreno, Valle de Bravo, Puebla and so many more.
I hope San Miguel can be a gateway to introduce more people to explore Mexico - it’s an extraordinary country and so much more than what’s in the headlines.
Why thank you!
Yes, the nonprofits are amazing! Didn't realize that was unique-ish to SMA tho.
We love Mexico too! And definitely want to spend more time exploring the "lesser-known" places. We may get back to you for (more) recommendations.
P.S. Love your newsletter. (And I'm PICKY LOL)
Thank you so much, Brent! High praise indeed… your blog sets a high bar!
Aw thank you.
Lovely introspective article. I have really enjoyed your posts from this city. Mexico feels a million miles away to me in Ireland but you have brought it vividly to life, and Claire too. We see gentrification here in Ireland too, especially in the more beautiful towns such as Kenmare and Dingle in Kerry. Where there is a market for it there will always be seller and a buyer! 😕
Thank you very much, Lucy! (Loved Dingle, but I bet it's changed SO MUCH since we were there in 1996...)
Oh its a very popular area now. We generally avoid it during height of summer due to its busyness and inflated prices 😣
Unbelievable. It was EMPTY back then.
Good food for thought. Thanks Brent!
Thank you very much.
Glad you enjoyed our article!
Thank you for offering s balanced perspective, Michael.
Thank you and thank you for reading!
This is a very fair and even-handed report about a complicated subject in a beautiful place. I first visited San Miguel in 1989 and within 3 days, knew I was coming back. In the 35 or so years since that first visit, I have lived there for 18 years total. It's where most of my true friends still are. It shows up in my dreams. It is very much a part of my soul. Like so many San Miguel "old-timers," I sometimes grouse about the changes and gentrification. I loved the fact there used to be hardly any traffic at all --but that was because most Mexicans could not afford cars. I hate that so many of the artists and writers and other creative foreigners that used to give the town so much of its character have been priced out of it entirely. But I have so many Mexican friends who I have watched grow up, get educated, start businesses. Whenever I take a cab or Uber in town, I always ask the driver how long they have been in SMA and what they think of the changes. Many decry the rise in prices, the horrendous traffic, and the loss of crystal clear air quality. But then they always--ALWAYS--add, "But there's work." Overall, they prefer it now to "then." Bottom line -- I think San Miguel will always have its special magic. It's just a different kind of magic than it was 35 years ago. And that is the constant way of the world, isn't it?
Appreciate the perspective, and the kind words. 🙂
The pace of change has just been extraordinary! Which has been great...and also unsettling.
I agree there is magic, and also that it's probably different now. 😕
Thank you for this fascinating post! It seems like San Miguel is going through a shift towards tourism similar to what all of Albania is going through. I think commentators who talk about tourism "ruining" a place's "authenticity" are fundamentally trying to project simplicity onto a complex world--not to mention failing at empathy. The reality is that "authentic" often is another way of saying "poor."
I so appreciate that you drew on conversations with multiple local Mexicans for this essay, it really does make a difference and shows how deeply rooted into your community you've gotten. Heck, you've inspired me: I'm going to work on talking to more Albanians in the tourism industry myself to get a better sense of the situation here!
LOL Yes! "Authentic" = "poor" Which is easy for rich Westerners to say, isn't it?
We are very curious about Albania. Love to read what you discover.
Meeting locals (and also other expats) is, no joke, the best part of travel for us. :-)
Thanks for this insightful piece. My husband keeps pushing to visit San Miguel de Allende and I’ve been resisting for fear of encountering yet another place that has been wrecked by over-tourism. I feel a bit reassured by your clear-eyed analysis, though I’d also like to visit the less popular towns. I do find it appalling that Americans think it’s a virtue to live in Mexico for 20 years without attempting to learn Spanish.
We enjoyed it a lot, but then again, we were there in the low season! Man, over-tourism is REAL.
Yes, isn't that shocking?
What a great post. You covered it all.
Thank you!
Thank you for a well- researched and fair analysis of San Miguel. It was a pleasure to read.
Thank you. 😍